Surf Stories - Gerry Lopez

Surfing is not an easy thing to do. In the process of learning this demanding and often uncompromising activity, all surfers eventually discover something extremely profound - not about surfing, but about live itself. If there is more difficulty in seeing this forest through these trees, in time, surfers see in their experience of surfing numerous and often interesting, parables about life. While the waves of life may seem indeed more challenging to ride that the waves of the ocean , when we apply the lessons learned in the surf, sometimes we find (in the metaphorical sense)... the easier paddle out to the lineup, how to hook into that hard-to-see rip current that slides us smoothly through the closeout sets of day-to-day life and, perhaps, we gain the outside prime takeoff position with our hair still dry.